It is said that the origin of coffee , this wonderful drink that brightens our mornings, is attributed to the African country of Ethiopia, with a beautiful legend that tells us that in ancient Abyssinia (now Ethiopia), a shepherd named Kaldi noticed one day that his goats were behaving unusual, grazing more energetically after eating some red fruits from a tree. Kaldi harvested some of these fruits and took them to the wise local monks who ignored him and threw them into the fire, but after a few minutes they began to perceive a very pleasant aroma coming from those fruits. This, dear reader, is the happy beginning of a great story full of legends, myths and prohibitions based on this delicious, social and medicinal drink spread throughout the world thanks to the traditional and beautiful Ethiopian culture.
Although Ethiopian coffee began to be exploited in the 9th century, its first export was in 1600 at the hands of European traders. The first plantations were in Kaffa and Buno. The most widely cultivated coffee was "Harari," which is known today as "Harrar." The National Coffee Board was established in 1957. From 1970 to 1990, Ethiopia underwent political changes that affected its coffee development. In 1991, with a new system of government, it opened up to international markets, reinventing itself economically with a new stock exchange and the creation of numerous cooperatives, which are the current drivers of coffee production.
Ethiopian coffee
Arabica, Robusta, and a blend of these two varieties are grown in Ethiopia, but Arabica is the most widely harvested. Ethiopian coffee beans are smaller than those of other specialty coffees , and due to the high altitudes, it is characterized by being dense, hard, and has a sweeter flavor.
Each region of Ethiopia grows very different coffees, and there are so many varieties that it's impossible to describe all the flavors and textures found in these beans. One of their main characteristics is their high acidity, with a complex flavor, an intense aroma, and various fruity notes.
Coffee cultivation in Ethiopia
Coffee is grown sustainably in Ethiopia. Most of its crops cover four types:
- Forest coffee: Represents 10% of the country's crops. This cultivation method means the coffee has grown naturally in wild forests located in southwestern and southeastern Ethiopia. They grow alongside other large and small trees that provide shade for the coffee.
- Semi-forest coffee: After some modifications to forest coffee, this second form of cultivation is achieved. Here, some trees and brush are cut down to control shade and crop density. This type of coffee is also found in the southwest and represents 5% of total crops.
- Garden coffee: represents 50% of crops. This type of coffee is grown using traditional methods, as it is part of family gardens. This type of cultivation is more productive than the previous two. Most of these crops are found in the Sidama and Yirgachefe regions.
- Plantation coffee: This is the most unusual form of coffee cultivation in Ethiopia. It represents only 5% of the crop, but is gaining popularity each year on large farms that use the best production techniques. These crops are found in the southwest of the country.
Coffee-growing regions of Ethiopia
So now you know that Ethiopia is one of the countries with the most coffee varieties in one place, so it's easier to differentiate by region than by variety. Here are some of the largest Ethiopian coffee-producing regions.
- Sidama: This is a highland area between 1,550 and 2,200 meters above sea level. It has fertile soil ideal for producing coffee with fresh acidity and floral and citrus notes. Sixty percent of the coffee in this region is produced by washing.
- Yirgachefe or Irgachefe: Located in south-central Ethiopia at an altitude between 1,600 and 2,400 meters above sea level, it is one of the largest coffee-producing regions, comprised of several specialty coffee -producing areas, which undergo a washing process. Cultivation and ripening are slow, allowing the coffee to absorb more nutrients and develop its full tasting notes. Coffee from this region is more expensive than that from other areas because it has been rated among the best in the world in several coffee competitions.
- Harrar: Located in eastern Ethiopia at an altitude of 1,890 meters above sea level, the coffee grown is primarily natural Arabica coffee, known for its intense flavor and fruity acidity. Most varieties in Harrar are cultivated in wild forests, using artisanal methods.
- Limu: Located in southwestern Ethiopia at an altitude of 1,100 to 1,900 meters above sea level, this washed coffee has very low acidity, a well-balanced body, and floral flavors that make it sweet and vibrant, like red wine.
- Jimma: Found in southwestern Ethiopia at an altitude of 1,400 to 2,100 meters above sea level. The majority of this coffee has a fruity flavor of plums, apricots, and mango, with citrus notes like orange peel. It's a clean coffee with a smooth body and medium-high acidity, widely used for espressos.
Ethiopian Coffee in World Trade
One of the things that makes Ethiopian coffee special, ranked among the top ten in the world, is that its cultivation is part of the country's culture. Coffee growers harvest the finest coffees with love and dedication. Coffee cultivation is a fundamental part of Ethiopia's economy, accounting for more than 60% of the country's foreign income. So much so that Ethiopians have a well-known saying: "Buna dabo naw," which means "Coffee is our bread."
The Coffee Ceremony
Finally, I'm going to describe how the coffee ceremony is performed in Ethiopia, a daily ritual of enormous spiritual, familial, and social importance to Ethiopian culture. The ceremony lasts two to three hours and is repeated three times a day. It begins with the preparation of the room. The woman preparing the coffee scatters fresh herbs and flowers on the floor. She burns incense to ward off evil spirits. A black clay vessel with a black base called a "jabena" is filled with water. It is then placed over the embers to heat the water. The hostess takes a handful of green coffee beans and places them in another pan-like container. The ceremony takes the beans to shake them clean and remove their husks. Once clean, they are gently roasted in this container, spreading the aroma, whose fragrance is an important part of the ceremony.
The coffee is then ground using a mortar and pestle consisting of a container called a "mukecha" and a cylinder called a "zenezena." The coffee is then added to the water. The coffee is served as soon as it reaches a boil in handleless ceramic cups, which are arranged tightly together. The hostess skillfully pours the coffee in a single stream, passing from cup to cup, leaving the grounds in the container. After the first round, two more are served, each one milder than the last, as it is believed that each round transforms the spirit of those who share this significant ceremony.