In Panama, a country with lush landscapes and rich biodiversity, coffee culture is emerging as a hidden gem, characterized by its unique flavors and commitment to quality, especially represented in the famous Geisha café .
In this article, we'll explore how Panama's history, cultivation, and passion for coffee have made it a leading destination in the world of specialty coffee.
History of Panamanian coffee
Panama's relationship with coffee began quietly; introduced by European immigrants in the 19th century, The crops were planted in Chiriquí province, known locally as the Valley of the Moon, which remains the country's main coffee-producing area. Although the first plantations were coastal, they soon moved to higher altitudes due to pests and diseases affecting the crops.
In the 1960s, the Gesha variety was introduced to the country (the first specimens were collected from wild trees in Ethiopia), but with little impact. In fact, many farmers found it difficult to cultivate and maintain.
It wasn't until 1997, with the formation of the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP), that the country's relationship and reputation with coffee began to change. SCAP's founding members rethought coffee farming on farms with a new focus on quality rather than high production. Along with this shift came a boost in education, with producers interested in better understanding cupping and flavor, which aided in decision-making about which varieties to plant. In 1998, the Best of Panama competition was launched, and in 2001, the first international online auction was held; buyers from around the world could now bid on Panamanian coffee.
In 2004, history was made when a washed Gesha coffee from Hacienda La Esmeralda fetched a record price of $21 per pound; the highest price up to that point was $4.80 per pound. With lots since then selling for over $800 per pound, it's not hard to understand why Panama's coffee reputation has revolved around a single variety.
Like any success story, it hasn't all been easy for Panama since it was catapulted into the specialty coffee spotlight. The high value and demand for Gesha has allowed some established producers to reinvest in their communities, focusing on environmentally sustainable renovations for their farms. Some areas, like Boquete, nicknamed the Napa Valley of Coffee, have seen an increase in coffee tourism.
This growth, coupled with investment from international buyers, has driven up land values, often exceeding prices for native-born producers and landowners. Many coffee farms are owned by expatriates and international buyers, and while this has largely meant increased financial support, investment in infrastructure and farming practices, some have been attracted by the high potential value of Gesha, which has meant ignoring traditional land laws and deforesting national parks to obtain optimal farm locations. For these reasons, it is important to be responsible in choosing where and from whom you purchase coffee.
Cultivation and harvesting of Panamanian coffee
Located along the "grain belt"—an area between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn—Panama boasts an enviable climate like no other, with its narrow distance between oceans creating an ideal environment for coffee cultivation. The northern (Caribbean) and southern (Pacific) winds create idyllic microclimates, aided by virgin forests that provide shade and act as natural windbreaks, Perfect for protecting the delicate branches of the Gesha coffee tree. The winds that form over the northern mountains create a fog called bajareque; this lowers the temperature on the farms, slowing the cherry ripening process and creating a higher concentration of sugar, which in turn contributes to a more complex, sweet, and delicious final cup.
These microclimates also help keep pests and diseases under control. Such a unique landscape has meant that varieties that don't grow well elsewhere thrive in Panama, making it a testing ground for growers' experiments. Among the many varieties, you'll commonly find Typica, Caturra, Catuai, Bourbon, and, of course, Gesha.
Around 80% of the coffee grown in Panama is Arabica; the majority of this coffee is grown in three regions within the province of Chiriquí: Boquete, Volcán, and Renacimiento. Boquete is the oldest and best-known, with altitudes of up to 2,800 meters above sea level. These three coffee-growing regions are located around three volcanoes: Volcán Barú, El Valle, and La Yeguada, resulting in rich and fertile soils.
Harvest typically occurs between December and March. Boquete and Volcán boast strong transportation and processing infrastructure. Renacimiento is remote and difficult to access, with less infrastructure in place. However, all three regions benefit from the same exceptional terroir that makes them renowned for their world-class coffee.
Processing and preparation of Panamanian coffee
While a single variety has undoubtedly contributed to the presence of Panamanian specialty coffee, there is a commitment on the part of many of the country's producers to go beyond the expected. They are not in the business for a quick sale or the glory associated with Gesha, and it's not just these lots that command high prices and enviable cup scores. Producers are enthusiastic experimenters, adjusting their processing methods and trying new and unusual techniques to improve the quality of their coffees. There is a continuous creativity and innovative spirit in Panama that keeps the country in the spotlight.
While many have come to recognize the delicate floral, mild tea, and fruit notes that Panama Gesha is famous for, Many producers are exceeding expectations, exploring, developing and perfecting unusual processing methods, creating exceptional batches that should be celebrated in their own right. From drying coffee in dark rooms to winemaking, Panama's producers may have arrived later on the coffee scene than many, but they're finding ways to ensure they stay firmly on the map—not by relying on a single story, but by writing the next chapters of specialty coffee—and we can't wait to see where their story takes them.
Overview of Panamanian coffee
According to data from the Ministry of Agricultural Development, Panama has approximately 17,548 hectares of coffee cultivated by some 8,287 producers, with the province of Chiriquí being the largest producer. with 6,434.99 hectares, cultivated by 1,154 producers, followed by Coclé with 4,715 hectares (2,210 producers), Panamá Oeste with 2,300 hectares (1,000 producers) and Colón with 1,801 hectares (1,601 producers).
Chiriquí is truly the center of quality Arabica coffee production, while the other regions are at lower altitudes and grow Robusta. Chiriquí boasts mountains, winds, fog, numerous high-altitude coffee growing locations, microclimates, and nutrient-rich volcanic soils. High-altitude coffee—or "café de Altura"—is a critical marker of quality. Numerous entrepreneurs have started coffee farms in Chiriquí over the past 20–30 years, introducing new farming techniques, employing sustainable and organic practices, and overall improving quality to world-class levels.
In the last five years, there has been a 12% increase in production and a 4.5% increase in yields per hectare, with an increase of 20% over the last five years. Although large producers represent approximately 10%, the majority of coffee growers are small and medium-sized enterprises. The largest and most advanced producers have paved the way to excellence with varieties such as Gesha and Pacamara. Estate, single-origin, and single-variety coffees have opened export markets and allowed for the achievement of the quality necessary to command the highest prices for coffees worldwide.
Gesha is a variety of Arabica coffee and is the most recognized worldwide. Its popularity began in 2004 when it entered the Best of Panama competition and took first place in several categories. Today, it continues to be one of the most used varieties by baristas in tasting competitions for the world's best coffees.